Category: Perfume dossier

Emeraude by Coty

An eBay picture via
The Muse in Wooden Shoes blog.

Name: Emraude

Brand: Coty

Perfumer: François Coty

Year of creation: 1921

Pyramid according to the H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Citrusy, Fresh
Main: Bergamot, Lemon
Supported by: Lemongrass, Orange

Heart notes: Sweet, Floral
Main: Rosewood
Supported by: Rose, Jasmin, Ylang-Ylang

Base notes: Sweet, Balsamic, Powdery
Main: Vanilla, Ambrein
Supported by: Opoponax, Benzoin, Sandal, Patchouli

Classification by H&R Genealogy:
Feminine, Oriental, Sweet

Classifications according to the Fragrance Wheel by Michael Edwards:
Oriental, Classical subgroup

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs):
F3f – Ambrée, Ambrée doux (sweet/soft amber) according to the old classification. In 1984 classification F3 is reserved for Ambrée hespéridé (citrusy amber) and F1 is Ambrée doux (sweet/soft amber).

Luca Turin verdict:  1 stars of 5, cheap oriental

In his review Luca Turin admires the original version (smelled at Osmotheque) as well as a scratch sample from a magazine in 1967, but calls the modern drug store release “crap value even at the bargain-basement price”.

This fragrance is often compared to:

Shalimar by Guerlain

Inspiration:

Inspired by the emerald jewels of Persian temples François Coty wanted to create “the soul of the emerald in fragrance.”

The bottle:

Initially was presented in flacons by Lalique and Baccarat. Latter perfume bottles were made by Coty’s own glassworks in Pantin.

A Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon by Lalique originally made for Muguet by Coty (source: eBay)

Interesting facts:

Choosing a perfume to match the hair color was the order of the day when Emeraude came out. This perfume was suggested for brunettes and red haired.

In 60’s Coty used the following slogan to advertise Emeraude: “For the woman who dares to be different.”

Personal notes: Emeraude vs. Shalimar.

Similar age, same classification, roughly the same pyramid construction, so the comparison is inevitable. There are even rumors about Coty selling his formulation to Guerlain, but also a contradicting legend about Guerlain creating Shalimar by adding vanilla to Jicky. The truth is there somewhere… The fact is that the structure of both compositions is very similar indeed: a contrast between a classic citrus freshness and a sweet powdery vanilla with a touch of leather or smoke. An in depth comparison is difficult as both perfumes have undergone many reformulations. And the modern version of Emeraude seem to be a pale image of the original.

A modern cologne version of Emeraude
Picture from Walmart.com

Unfortunately I can’t say anything about the original – never smelled the vintage perfume. But I own a modern chartreuse colored cologne version in a squared bottle (see the picture above). It smells a bit cheap to my nose. So I agree with Luca Turin on this, but have to admit that the “cheap” impression is often defined by our olfactory experience. I get a whiff of something that reminds me of a cheap cologne from my past together with a slight soapiness of Emeraude’s floral part and a smoky aspect that makes me think of a burnt incense stick. Those three aspects are making the modern version of Emeraude smelling cheap to me (especially compared to Shalimar).

But once I recognize where those “cheap” associations come from and set them apart, I find Emeraude quite a comforting scent. A nostalgy of a classic bitterness from a fresh citrus top with a lemon candy touch against a sweet and comforting amber with a vanilla powderness and a touch of smoke. I understand the numerous positive reviews. But to me personally it’s rather a house robe I put on at home when feeling chilly than an accessory to complete a look for going out. The floral part is less pronounced here to my nose. And instead a velvety iris of Shalimar I smell just a whiff of ionones here. Can’t get Opopanax or a leathery animalic aspect of Shalimar here, but rather a smoky note of a burnt incense stick (not unpleasant though). The last one also reminds me of Tabu by Dana.

Further reading:

  1. A study on Coty perfumes with a detailed story on Emeraude flacons on the Coty perfumes blog.
  2. The Muse in Wooden Shoes shares her personal connection with Emeraude and compares different versions.
  3. An overview of Coty fragrances at Ça Fleur Bon blog.

Shalimar by Guerlain

Picture from guerlain.com

Name: Shalimar

Brand: Guerlain

Perfumer: Jacques Guerlain

Year of creation: 1925 (or 1921, see interesting facts)

Pyramid according to the H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Citrusy, Fresh
Main: Lemon
Supported by: Bergamot, Mandarine, Rosewood

Heart notes: Woody, Floral
Main: Patchouli
Supported by: Rose, Jasmin, Orris, Vetiver

Base notes: Sweet, Powdery, Balsamic
Main: Opopanax
Supported by: Vanilla, Benzoin Siam, Peru Balsem, Leather

Classification by H&R Genealogy:
Feminine, Oriental, Sweet

Pyramid according to “Perfume Legends” by Michael Edwards:

Head notes: Sparkling
Bergamot

Heart notes: Fleeting
Rose, Jasmine

Soul notes: Seductive
Opopanax, Vanilla, Iris, Tonka Bean

Classifications according to the Fragrance Wheel by Michael Edwards: Oriental, Classical subgroup

Classification by Symrise Genealogy:
Feminine, Oriental, Ambery, Citrus

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs):
F3f – Ambrée, Ambrée doux (sweet/soft amber) according to the old classification. In 1984 classification F3 is reserved for Ambrée hespéridé (citrusy amber) and F1 is Ambrée doux (sweet/soft amber).

Guerlain (guerlain.com) describes the perfume as:

Oriental.
Voluptuous, sensual, spellbinding.

A flight of flowers and bergamot whips up the top notes with a breeze of freshness. The heart is warmed by enveloping and delicately powdery notes of iris, jasmine and rose. To conclude, the presence of vanilla, rounded balmy notes and the gourmand warmth of tonka bean orchestrate a sensual symphony for the dry-down.

There is also a short movie by Guerlain about Shalimar:

Luca Turin verdict: 5 stars of 5, reference oriental

This fragrance is compared to:

Shalimar is often referred as the first Oriental perfume. Its sweet vanilla accord has inspired many other creations (often recognized by the word “amber” in their name). Luca Turin uses Shalimar as a reference point and compares many other scents to it.

Habit Rouge, another Guerlain perfume, is often called a “Shalimar pour homme” among the perfumista.

There is a lot of resemblance between Shalimar and Emeraude by Coty (old formulation). There are even rumors suggesting that Coty has sold his formula to Guerlain (which seems to be less likely if you take 1921 as the year of Shalimar’s creation, same as Emeraude).

Inspiration:

“Shalimar” means “abode of love” in Sanskrit.

The inspiration behind Shalimar is the story of love told to Guerlain by a maharajah. It’s about Shah Jahangir, the emperor of Mughal who laid the gardens of Shalimar, his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal who died during the child birth and the famous Taj Mahal created in her memory.

A version of this story is worked out in a beautiful movie about Shalimar:

The bottle:

The original urn shaped bottle (often referred as chauve suris or the bat flacon) is designed by Raymond Guerlain and Baccarat and represents a bowl of fruits. The blue stopper is inspired by a palm fan.

Picture from Wikipedia

A glimpse on evolution of Shalimar Flacons

Picture from Fragrantica

Interesting facts:

Jean-Paul Guerlain tells that the main accord of Shalimar was created by his grandfather by adding a new vanilla material (ethyl vanillin presented to him by Justin Dupont) to the bottle of Jicky.

A famous quote by Ernest Beaux (creator of Chanel N5) on Shalimar is: “If I had used so much vanilla, I would have made only a crème anglaise, whereas Jacques Guerlain creates a Shalimar!”

Some sources mention 1921 as the year of creation. And indeed the perfume was finished by 1921. But Jacques Guerlain waited till April 1925 to present Shalimar at the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts in Paris.

Shalimar was also known as “No. 90” (for export bottles to UK) for a short time during a legal battle with another company using its name (probably Shalimar by DuBarry PerfumeryCo, England from 1927).

Further reading:

  1. “Perfume Legends” by Michael Edwards, p. 54-59.
  2. A blog post about the Chauve Souris or The Bat flacon of Shalimar and the perfume itself.
  3. A story of Shalimar by Perfume Shrine.

Jicky by Guerlain

Jicky by Guerlain from www.guerlain.com

Name: Jicky

Brand: Guerlain

Perfumer: Aimé Guerlain

Year of creation: 1889

Pyramid according to the H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Citrusy, Fresh
Main: Lemon
Supported by: Bergamot, Mandarine, Rosewood

Heart notes: Floral, Woody
Main: Jasmin, Patchouli
Supported by: Rose, Orris, Vetiver

Base notes: Sweet, Balsamic, Exotic
Main: Vanilla
Supported by: Benzoin, Amber, Tonka, Civet, Leather, Incense

Classification by H&R Genealogy:
Feminine, Oriental, Sweet

Pyramid according to “Perfume Legends” by Michael Edwards:

Head notes: Fresh, Aromatic
Lavender, Bergamot, Rosemary, Rosewood

Heart notes: Spicy
Geranium, Jasmine, Rose

Soul notes: Warm&Sensual
Tonka Bean, Opopanax, Vanilla, Coumarin

Classifications according to the Fragrance Wheel by Michael Edwards: Aromatic (Fougère), Classical subgroup

Classification by Symrise Genealogy:
Masculine, Oriental, Ambery, Animalic

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs):
C1f – Fougère, Fougère.

This fragrance is compared to: 

“Mouchoir de Monsieur” by Guerlain is often compared to “Jicky”.

“Kiki” by Vero Kern was created as a tribute to “Jicky”.

Inspiration:

“Jicky” was named after Aimé’s favorite nephew Jacques (Jicky is a hypocoristic form of this name). But there is also a legend about mysterious Jacqueline (also called Jicky), the first and probably the only love of Aimé Guerlain who wasn’t granted her hand in marriage and therefore left brokenhearted.

The bottle:

The bottle was designed by Gabriel Guerlain (Aimé ‘s brother) and later modified by Baccarat in 1947. Its body represents an old pharmacy jar to honor Aimé’s and Gabriel’s father Pierre François-Pascal who was a chemist. The stopper resembles a champagne cork.

Interesting facts:

In a novel “Queen of the Underworld” by Gail Godwin Jicky is refered as followed: “a sensational perfume that became an instand must-have for La Belle Époche’s aesthetes”. But in the following alinea also mentions that “some people were scandalized by Jicky’s audacious civet base and its idefinable appeal – what French call je ne sais quoi”. Dandies and “woman who is not afraid to be original” seem to adore this perfume.

According to the perfumer Jean-Claude Elléna “Jicky was an abrupt break in with traditional perfumery, which copied nature. It marked the beginning of emotive perfumery, which no longer attempt to imitate the scent of flowers, but sought instead to arouse emotion.”

Luca Turin in his Guide mentions, that Aimé Guerlain was using an impure yellow vanilline from De Lair that contained a residue of guaiacol. It gave “Jicky” a burnt smoky nuance. After the process of vanilla production was improved Aimé Guerlain continued to ask for that low grade vanilline. Nowadays a little bit of birch tar is used to simulate that effect.

At first “Jicky” was produced in a blue straight squared bottle targeting the male audience. But according to Philippe Guerlain: “When they realized that Jicky was too modern for men, they decided to target it towards women”.

Further reading:

  1. Persolaise (Dariush Alavi) comparing the Osmothèque version to a modern one (from 2014).
  2. Grain de musc on the gender of the scent.
  3. “Perfume Legends” by Michael Edwards, p. 15-19.

Gucci Guilty Absolute

https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article-category-beauty/article/spring_summer_2017_guilty_absolute_shoppable

What can you find in a bottle:

  • On a blotter it opens with a civet-like note which is almost shocking. Something rather to expect within a niche range of perfumes than in a mainstream scent. Camels, horses and cowsheds may come into the mind, though oud is not mentioned here. But on the skin it becomes less zoo-like and brings warm and sensual depth into the fragrance.
  • An intimate close to skin scent what you might smell under a worn out leather jacket on a bare male skin. The jacket seems to keep the history of its wearer. Just a few nuances like mineral notes of oil and gasoline or residues of modern fougère perfumes and woody scents ingrained into leather.
  • A very comforting warm and dry woody base.
  • A slightly metallic aromatic vibe recognizable from many modern masculine fougère fragrances.

Fragrant notes: Woodleather®, Goldenwood®, Nootka cypress, Patchouli, Vetiver

Perfumer: Alberto Morillas

Creative Director: Alessandro Michele

Year of creation: 2017

Face of the advertising campaign: Jared Leto (photographer – Glen Luchford).

Facts:
Alberto Mirullas on his creation: “Absolute speaks to a new generation of men, his wants, needs, passions and his modernity.”

Woodleather® is a new Firmenich captive with an oud scent profile. Also used in “Original Oud” by Mizensir, the fragrance project by Alberto Morillas.

Goldenwood® is another Firmenich captive. As long as it’s under patent protection (as well as Woodleather®), not much information will be revealed.

Nootka cypress (also known as Alaskan Cedarwood) is a conifer growing in the Northwest Rainforest area. Firmenich describes the smell of Cedarwood Alaska essential oil as “sparkling with a fresh and breezy grapefruit crisp due to its Nootkatene and Nootkatone content (grapefruit odorants)”and “less camhoraceous and smoky, but stronger, longer lasting and more linear than the regular Cedarwood oil”.  Also used in Penhaligon’s Blasted Heath Бертрана and Mizensir Perfect Oud (Parfumo.net gives the following list of fragrances using this note – https://www.parfumo.net/Fragrance_Note/Nootka_cypress).

The campaign:

 

Poême de Lancômе

What can you find inside the bottle?

  • A bunch of sultry flowers like jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, rose and ylang-ylang spreading their heady and suffocating aroma between the landscapes made of honey and vanilla.
  • A meadow full of yellow flowers bathing under the golden sunlight.
  • Daffodils. The poisonous greenish aroma along the lines of Chloé Narcisse.
  • Downy powderness that recalls the fluffy mimosa flowers.
  • Warm orange blossom that plays between the seductiveness of a white flower and the powdery blossom dust.
  • The poisonous Angel trompet flower or datura similar to Datura Noir by Serge Lutens.
  • Blue poppies from Himalaya supposed to be there. Can’t really find them, but can easily imagine the heat of orange and red poppies.
  • Abundant character combined with a very strong projection and tenacity. Beware, it can be suffocating!
  • An effect of a nourished skin as if it’s moisturized with a reach luxury body cream (similar orange blossom, lily, gardenia and tuberose aroma are often used to perfume luxury nourishing creams). I had a similar effect in Twilly by Hermès.
  • An ancestor (one of many) of modern floral oriental perfumes.

Pyramid (a compilation from various on-line sources):

Top Notes: Blue poppy, Datura (Angel’s trumpet or thorn-appel), Bergamot, Green notes, Mandarin, Narcissus, Peach, Plum, Blackcurrant

Heart Notes: Freesia, Heliotrope, Jasmine, Leather, Mimosa, Orange blossom, Rose, Tuberose, Vanilla blossom, Ylang-ylang, Jonquil, Daffodil

Base Notes: Amber, Musk, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Cedar

Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier

Year of creation: 1995

Classification by H&R Genealogy:
Feminine, Floral, Sweet (2000 – 2001 version)

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): F4f – Ambrée-Orientale (Oriental/Amber), Ambré Fleuri Boisé (Amber, floral, woody), feminine.

Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Floral Oriental, Classical/Classique, feminine

Luca Turin Guide verdict: * 1 star of 5 calling it “horrid floral”
“…combining the worst of Amarige (the hideous tuberose), the worst of Spellbound (triple-distilled oil slick), and a novel, uniquely unpleasant, peppery-floral chrysanthemum note all its own.”

The fragrance was presented as: “A rich floral-oriental parfum created by Jacques Cavallier who used two flowers that had never been used in a fragrance before, the Himalayan blue poppy and the datura, desert flower.” according to Perfume Intelligence Encyclopedia.

Bottle design: by Fabien Baron

Narcisse Noir by Caron

Narcisse Noir creates an illusion of a non-existent flower which is quite convincing. The dry green bitterness with oil-paint like nuance evokes the image of narcissus. And the animalic darkness of civet in the base does paint it black. Although reading about this fragrance makes me to think that the original version of this perfume was much heavier on civet than its modern interpretations. But to me Narcisse Noir is mostly about the orange blossom. It represents an interesting aspect of the orange flower which I perceive as a slow thickening of sunlight during a sunset. The color changes from a warm orange glow to a dark orange and almost brown before it falls into the darkness. Warm, sultry, heady and definitely fatal.

Pyramid according to H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Fresh, Flowery
Main: Bergamot
Supported by: Mandarin, Petitgrain, Lemon

Heart notes: Dry, Floral
Main: Narcissus, Jasmin
Supported by: Jonquil, Orange Blossom

Base notes: Floral, Sensual
Main:  –
Supported by: Civet, Musk, Sandal

Perfumer: Ernest Daltroff

Year of creation: 1912 (or 1911)

Classification by H&R Genealogy:
Feminine, Oriental, Sweet (1985 version)
Feminine, Oriental (end 2000’s version)

Classification by Symrise Genealogy: Feminine, Oriental, Woody, Animalic

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): B1f-09 – Floral, soliflore, Narcissus

Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Floral, Rich/Profond, orange blossom, feminine

Luca Turin Guide verdict: ** 2 stars of 5 calling it “woody jasmine”. In her review Tania Sanchez shares her regrets on reformulations of this great classic and describes the modern version as followed: “Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Floral, Rich/Profond, orange blossom, feminine.”

Smelling a modern version can raise a question about the placing this scent inside an oriental family. I guess the key here is the reformulation Tania Sanchez is complaining about. I think the animalic note of civet was much more pronounced in original and made it much closer to those animalic musk attars from the East. But it’s in the past. And nowadays Michael Edwards describes it as a floral perfume with a predominant orange blossom note.

Interesting facts:

Barbara Herman in her “Scent and Subversion” mentions that Ernest Beaux, the creator of Chanel N5 described Narcisse Noir as “a perfume of the most striking vulgarity.”

Ostrom, Lizzie in her “Perfume: A Century of Scents calls” it “a lawsuit perfume” as “Caron lawyered up against several firms, including Du Moiret for their Moon-Glo Narcissus, and Henri Muraour & Cie for their Narcisse Bleu. […]
Caron, holding the trademark for the complete phrase ‘Narcisse Noir’, argued that any use of the word ‘narcisse’ in fragrance from a competitor should be disallowed.”

The new (for the time of creation) aromachemicals para-cresol and its esters were used in Narcisse Noir for the first time (according to Perfumer&Flavorist, Vol. 15, November/December 1990). Para-cresol and its esters (like para-cresyl acetate) possess a harsh phenolic smell with heavy floral nuances (when diluted) resembling the smell of narcissus, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, lily and animalic accents.

efflor_esce by Nomenclature

efflor_esce

Picture from http://www.nomenclature.nyc/

Name: efflor_esce

Year: 2015

Perfumer: Frank Voelkl

Featured aromachemical: Paradisone®

Notes: Paradisone® (citrus-floral), neroli, tuberose, bergamot, bigarade, osmanthus

Paradisone® is an aromachemical with an intensive floral smell. It’s related to cis-jasmone, a fragrant component naturally occurring in jasmine (which is also found in other aromatic plants). It’s also related to Hedione (a very popular jasmine molecule often referred as “water jasmine”). To make a long story short… Hedione is not a single molecule, but a mix of four isomers. Paradisone® is one of them. The one possessing the most intensive floral smell. It’s like Paradisone® being the floral heart of Hedione.

Among others Paradisone® is used in the following Armani perfumes – Aqua di Gio Essenza, Aqua di Gio Profumo and Ombre & Lumière as well as in Eau Océane by Biotherm and Iris Prima by Penhaligon’s.

Nomenclature describes efflor_esce as:

“The flower of angels Paradisone® is “the angelic aroma of one million flowers… a storm of delicacy and diffusion,” in the poetic words of the perfumer Arcadi Boix-Camps. In the astonishingly radiant efflor_esce, Frank Voelkl blows its heavenly breeze over an edenic Sicilian orchard. Touched by the luminous soul of jasmine, the fruit, leaves, twigs and blossoms of the orange tree unfurl their heady, sun-gorged scents. Bergamot adds its peppery sparkle; osmanthus, the yielding velvet of its apricot and suede flesh; tuberose, its narcotic sillage. This is nature, but better: Paradise found.”

My own impression of efflor_esce:

Spraying efflor_esce on my skin is like surrounding myself with a floral aura. As if I was standing in the middle of the garden where thousands of flowers warmed by the sun are saturating the air with their perfume. On the foreground my nose recognizes the lemony smell of magnolia and apricot jam scented osmanthus. And further I smell a transparent veil of jasmine and lilies-of-the-valley with fruity sweetness of tropical flowers on the background.

The light citrus aspect gives me an impression of a bright day and fresh air. Efflor_esce feels transparent and airy, but at the same time saturated or even mouth-filling.

Although the intensity of the floral impression fades quickly, the airy aura of this perfume is quite long lasting. With time I also recognize aspects of jasmine tea, which reminds me that Hedione (used in this perfume next to Paradisone®) is often used as a main component of a tea accord.

adr_ett by Nomenclature

Nomenclature 4 scents

Nomenclature perfumes from http://www.nomenclature.nyc/

Name: adr_ett (menas “neat” or “dapper” in German)

Year: 2015

Perfumer: Frank Voelkl

Featured aromachemical: Helvetolide® (synthetic musk)

Notes: Helvetolide®, pink pepper, iris, amber gris, vanilla, tonka bean

Helvetolide® is a synthetic musk molecule patented by the Swiss company Firmenich in 1991 and named after Swiss Confideration (Confoederatio Helvetica in Latin) for its 700th anniversary. Helvetolide® belongs to the generation of acyclic or linear musks. For the first time it was used in 1997 in Swiss Army scent sold on Swissair planes.

Firmenich describes this molecule as: “A sophisticated, modern musky note with a fruity pear aspect. Helvetolide® brings also richness and warmth reminding  Ambrette seeds.”

helvetolide

Helvetolide molecule from http://www.firmenich.com

Helvetolide® is considered to be a “top note” musks, it is very diffusive, not heavy and doesn’t flatten the fragrance. It’s also called the Hedione of musks. It is an elegant and expensive smelling musk with aspects of ambrette seed and pear. It belongs to the most influential molecules in perfumery of the XXI century.

Helvetolide® was used in Miracle by Lancôme, Ultraviolet Woman by Paco Rabanne, Flower by Kenzo, Cologne by Thierry Mugler, Pleasures Intense by Estée Lauder, Freedom by Tommy Hilfiger, Bvlgari Omnia and many others.

Nomenclature presents adr_ett as a Zero Gravity Musk and gives it the following description:

“Helvetolide® gives off a softly enveloping, long-lasting aura; an otherworldly feeling of stillness and weightlessness. Rather than using Helvetolide® in a “classic” way to enhance other notes, Frank Voelkl boosts its ethereal vibe in a futuristic composition that seems to conjure the scent of zero gravity. A pink pepper comet brings out its fruitiness. Cool, metallic iris underlines its affinities with ambrette (which has an iris facet). A nebula of vanilla, tonka bean and ambergris underline its sensuousness. In German, adrett means “neat” or “dapper”: in this spare, smartly trimmed scent, each element is essential – as it would be in outer space.”

My own perception:

Adr_ett is quite a minimalistic scent. It’s based on Helvetolide® and other notes are just emphasizing the different aspects of the main ingredient. Being sprayed on the skin it feels rather like a personal signature smell than a perfume. But even being minimalistic adr_ett feels quite complete with its fully developed aspects.

The opening of adr_ett gives me an elegant feeling of an iris perfume with a touch of sweetness of fresh watery pear.  The musky aura triggers the associations with a fresh clothes and corresponds with a “neat” or “smartly dressed” meaning of the German “adrett”. The “zero gravity” aspect of the scent appears to me as a sense of a soft cloud slowly floating above the ground. Adr_ett is subtle and transparent, stays close to the skin, but leaves an elegant aura and an impression of a groomed person which makes it a good scent for an office wear.

Fougère Royale, the beginning of Fougère family

Fougère_Royale_by_Paul_Parquet_(Houbigant)

Fougère Royale, photo via Wikimedia Commons (provided by the Osmothèque for public domain)

Name: Fougère Royale

Brand: Houbigant

Perfumer: Paul Parquet

Year of creation: 1882 (re-launched and re-orchestrated in 2010).

Pyramid according to H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Fresh, Herbaceous
Main: Lavender
Supported by: Clary Sage, Spike (lavender), Bergamot, Petitgrain

Heart notes: Dry, Floral
Main: Geranium
Supported by: Rose, Heliotrope, Carnation, Orchid

Base notes: Sweet, Mossy, Powdery
Main: Oakmoss, Musk
Supported by: Tonka, Hay, Vanilla

Classification by H&R Genealogy:
Masculine, Fougère, Fresh (end 80’s version),
Masculine, Fougère, Woody (end 2000’s version)

Classification by Symrise Genealogy: Masculine, Fougère, Ambery, Vanilla

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): C1m (other version C1f) – Fougère, Fougère.

This fragrance is compared to: English Fern by Penhaligon’s and Wild Fern Cologne by Geo F. Trumper

Interesting facts:

Fougère Royale is a fantasy bouquet exploring the smell of fern.

Fougère Royale is often mentioned to be the first fern fragrance. But there seem to be other fern perfumes before 1882. Like Fougère Ambrée by Savonnerie Maubert and Fougère Dorée by Isnard Maubert Parfumeur both from 1870. Or Wild Fern Cologde by Geo F. Trumber from 1877, There also seem to be an earlier version a Fougère Royale made by Paul Parquet for Eugene Rimmel in 1875 for Princess Alexandra.

In fact the fern theme was popular in the time of creation of Fougère Royale, but fern scents were predominantly used for perfuming soaps. So, Fougère Royale is a rare example of a functional scent that found its way into the Fine Perfumery.

Fougère Royale is considered to be the first perfume utilizing a synthetic aromachemical coumarin. It possesses a bittersweet, herbaceous, haylike odor and is still one of the main ingredients of the fougère fragrances.

It is a milestone perfume. Its success made this fragrance to inspire many other creations and even to become an ancestor for the olfactory family of fougères.

Fougère Royale seemed to be created as a feminine scent. As also the first other fougères. Later it was marketed as an ultimate gentlemen’s fragrance as you can see on this advertisements below. The later and present fougère perfumes are exclusively men’s fragrances.

Fougere-Royale-Life-11mei37-p49-Ad

An advertisement from the LIFE magazine, May 11th 1937, p. 49

Fougere-Royale-Life-11okt37-p58-Ad

An advertisement from the LIFE magazine, October 11th, 1937, p3 58

A lazy summer day of Noontide Petals

_MG_7709SW

Name: Noontide Petals

Brand: Tauer Perfumes

Perfumer: Andy Tauer

Year of creation: 2013

Pyramid by Tauer Perfumes:

Head notes, a glittering opening:
Bergamot, sparkling aldehydes softened by Bourbon geranium

Heart notes, a seductive chord of bright petals:
Finest rose, ylang, tuberose, jasmine

Body notes, a supple and sensuous gleam:
Patchouli, frankincense, vanilla, sandalwood, iris, with a hint of styrax and vetiver

Impression of the scent by Andy Tauer:

Referring back in time, Noontide Petals is a bright, brilliantly glittering fragrance with a modern twist.

With NOONTIDE petals I am referring to a glittering age of perfumery. Then, in the first quarter of the last century, aldehydes found their way into some of the most beautiful fragrances. Aldehydes allowed to create the most stunning effects in perfumery. Together with and complementing the distinguished beauty of natural extracts of flower petals, leaves and precious woods, they were and still are the key to noble glamour.

Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Soft Floral, Classical/Classique, feminine

My imression of Noontide Petals:

The floral aldehydic fragrances are like the ghosts from the past. The majority of them was born before the eighties, but just a few were launched within the last three decennia. The classic bloom of aldehydes seems to be out of date, but keeps to trigger the romantic hearts of those who follows the canons of classic perfumery. Like Andy Tauer who has created two fragrances in this style. Noontide Petals and Miriam (a part of Tableau de Parfums collection).

In contrast to Baghari (another aldehydic floral I tested earlier) my perception of Noontide Petals has nothing to do with winter, snow or cold. This fragrance is full of summer heat, sun and smell of flowers. It colors my imaginary canvas in all shades of yellow and brings me the pictures of a lazy afternoon in a summer garden.

The air is drenched with warmth and sun insomuch that I almost feel its vibrations. Or is it a hum of bees collecting the precious nectar from the garden? The fizzy power of aldehydes combines with bergamot freshness into a glass of lemonade as an attempt to soothe the summer heat. The mellowed flowers generously fill the air with their scent. To my perception the floral heart of Noontide Petals consists of yellow roses, lilies and ylang-ylang adorned with a sultry touch of jasmine and tuberose. A soporific bouquet inviting for a lazy noontide sleep.

The summer garden of Noontide Petals is enframed in a warm woody base with a touch of sweet vanilla and resins. The frankincense gives it an exotic nuance and brings a melancholic touch to its mood. Later it gives me an impression of a summer evening when the heat has left the air but found a shelter inside the wooden frame until the midnight.

Noontide Petals was not an easy fragrance to me. As many aldehydic florals. It took some time and effort to learn to love this classic family. It reminds me a bit of Chanel N22 with its aldehydes, resins and ylang-ylang. But when Chanel 22 is at the best in freezing weather, Noontide Petals seems to be its midsummer antipode. The sense of heat in combination with woods and frankincense also reminds me of L’Air du Desert Marocain and Lys du Desert.

A visual impression by Andy Tauer (from his blog):

noontide42s

noontidepetalslarge1