Orange blossom studies
October 27, 2017
During a blind test of a fragrance I found myself having a problem with recognizing an orange blossom inside a heady cloud of a white flower which I thought was tuberose. So, it’s time for some olfactory training and tuning on orange blossom.
So, it’s time to get the Orange Blossom absolute from the Osmoz set (Firmenich). According to the guide the smell supposed to be jasmine-based, indole-based, honeyed, rubbery and warm. To me it’s first of all rubbery. Almost unbelievable it’s a natural raw material and not an industrial accord. Just once I smelled a very similar effect in a mandarin petitgrain (mandarin leaves) essential oil. I thought it was a smell of a shoe factory in a bottle. The bitter green freshness as I know it from petitgrain essential oil joins the show. It’s not a surprise why petitgrain oil can be widely used in adulteration and falsification of orange blossom absolute. More in the depth I can smell idolic aspect and honey. Not really sweet, but definitely raw honey. The floral jasmine-like aspect is harder to find here for me. I do smell a salty flowery note reminding me of the infusion of jasmine flowers served as tea. This orange blossom absolute is less sweet than I remember it from a perfumery palette.
Anna Zworykina, the Russian natural perfumer told be it must be a specimen of orange blossom absolute from Tunisia which appears to have less honeyed sweetness than the one from Morocco.
As you can see from the picture the following perfumes are suggested to understand the orange blossom note: Poison by Dior, Poême by Lancôme, Fleurs d’Oranger by Serge Lutens.
There is also a good article on The Best Orange Flower fragrances of 2017 on Fragrantica. They are suggesting the following orange blossom perfumes: Roberto Cavalli EDP, Narcisse Noir by Caron, Classique by Jean Paul Gaultier, J’Adore in Joy by Dior and also Fleurs d’Oranger by Serge Lutens.