Poême de Lancômе
November 6, 2017
What can you find inside the bottle?
- A bunch of sultry flowers like jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, rose and ylang-ylang spreading their heady and suffocating aroma between the landscapes made of honey and vanilla.
- A meadow full of yellow flowers bathing under the golden sunlight.
- Daffodils. The poisonous greenish aroma along the lines of Chloé Narcisse.
- Downy powderness that recalls the fluffy mimosa flowers.
- Warm orange blossom that plays between the seductiveness of a white flower and the powdery blossom dust.
- The poisonous Angel trompet flower or datura similar to Datura Noir by Serge Lutens.
- Blue poppies from Himalaya supposed to be there. Can’t really find them, but can easily imagine the heat of orange and red poppies.
- Abundant character combined with a very strong projection and tenacity. Beware, it can be suffocating!
- An effect of a nourished skin as if it’s moisturized with a reach luxury body cream (similar orange blossom, lily, gardenia and tuberose aroma are often used to perfume luxury nourishing creams). I had a similar effect in Twilly by Hermès.
- An ancestor (one of many) of modern floral oriental perfumes.
Pyramid (a compilation from various on-line sources):
Top Notes: Blue poppy, Datura (Angel’s trumpet or thorn-appel), Bergamot, Green notes, Mandarin, Narcissus, Peach, Plum, Blackcurrant
Heart Notes: Freesia, Heliotrope, Jasmine, Leather, Mimosa, Orange blossom, Rose, Tuberose, Vanilla blossom, Ylang-ylang, Jonquil, Daffodil
Base Notes: Amber, Musk, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Cedar
Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier
Year of creation: 1995
Classification by H&R Genealogy:
Feminine, Floral, Sweet (2000 – 2001 version)
Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): F4f – Ambrée-Orientale (Oriental/Amber), Ambré Fleuri Boisé (Amber, floral, woody), feminine.
Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Floral Oriental, Classical/Classique, feminine
Luca Turin Guide verdict: * 1 star of 5 calling it “horrid floral”
“…combining the worst of Amarige (the hideous tuberose), the worst of Spellbound (triple-distilled oil slick), and a novel, uniquely unpleasant, peppery-floral chrysanthemum note all its own.”
The fragrance was presented as: “A rich floral-oriental parfum created by Jacques Cavallier who used two flowers that had never been used in a fragrance before, the Himalayan blue poppy and the datura, desert flower.” according to Perfume Intelligence Encyclopedia.
Bottle design: by Fabien Baron