Gucci Guilty Absolute
November 16, 2017
What can you find in a bottle:
- On a blotter it opens with a civet-like note which is almost shocking. Something rather to expect within a niche range of perfumes than in a mainstream scent. Camels, horses and cowsheds may come into the mind, though oud is not mentioned here. But on the skin it becomes less zoo-like and brings warm and sensual depth into the fragrance.
- An intimate close to skin scent what you might smell under a worn out leather jacket on a bare male skin. The jacket seems to keep the history of its wearer. Just a few nuances like mineral notes of oil and gasoline or residues of modern fougère perfumes and woody scents ingrained into leather.
- A very comforting warm and dry woody base.
- A slightly metallic aromatic vibe recognizable from many modern masculine fougère fragrances.
Fragrant notes: Woodleather®, Goldenwood®, Nootka cypress, Patchouli, Vetiver
Perfumer: Alberto Morillas
Creative Director: Alessandro Michele
Year of creation: 2017
Face of the advertising campaign: Jared Leto (photographer – Glen Luchford).
Alberto Mirullas on his creation: “Absolute speaks to a new generation of men, his wants, needs, passions and his modernity.”
Woodleather® is a new Firmenich captive with an oud scent profile. Also used in “Original Oud” by Mizensir, the fragrance project by Alberto Morillas.
Goldenwood® is another Firmenich captive. As long as it’s under patent protection (as well as Woodleather®), not much information will be revealed.
Nootka cypress (also known as Alaskan Cedarwood) is a conifer growing in the Northwest Rainforest area. Firmenich describes the smell of Cedarwood Alaska essential oil as “sparkling with a fresh and breezy grapefruit crisp due to its Nootkatene and Nootkatone content (grapefruit odorants)”and “less camhoraceous and smoky, but stronger, longer lasting and more linear than the regular Cedarwood oil”. Also used in Penhaligon’s Blasted Heath Бертрана and Mizensir Perfect Oud (Parfumo.net gives the following list of fragrances using this note – https://www.parfumo.net/Fragrance_Note/Nootka_cypress).