Floramye by L.T. Piver, the first aldehydic floral?

Name: Floramye

Brand: L.T. Piver

Perfumer: Jacques Rouché (perfumer and administrator of L.T. Piver) and George Darzens (fragrant chemist and the director of Piver laboratory); some sources refer Pierre Armingeat

Year of creation: 1905 (discontinued and re-launched in 1991)

Perfume notes: not much known except a floral bouquet with aldehydes on top

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): B3f Floral, floral bouquet, feminine (probably based on the older version)

Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Chypre, Crisp/Petillant, subcategory Green/Vert, feminine (probably based on the new version)

Interesting facts:
Being a fragrance chemist George Darzens has synthesized and introduced new aromachemicals into perfumery. One of them was 2-methylundecanal better known as aldehyde C-12 MNA (methyl nonyl aldehyde) in 1904. This new chemical was the first aldehyde used in perfumery in Floramye in 1905 on the top of the floral bouquet. Also it was used in the re-rofmulation of Rêve d’Or, another Piver creation from 1898. In 1905 its balsamic aspect was enriched by paring a newly discovered aldehyde with the incense note. In 1907 the same C-12 MNA aldehyde was used in Pompeia (again by Piver), but this time in combination with other aldehydes.

Some visual impressions:

An older version of Floramye from L’Art Français (http://www.artfrancais.nl/l-t-piver-floramye.html):

Floramye1

Another picture from the same website (http://www.artfrancais.nl/floramye-van-l-t-piver.html):

Floramye2

Another version of Floramye submitted to the Parfumo database by Florblanca user (http://www.parfumo.net/Perfumes/L_T_Piver/Floramye):

Floramye3

Chanel N5

 Chanel5official

Name: No. 5

Brand: Chanel

Perfumer: Ernest Beaux

Year of creation: 1921

Pyramid according to H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Aldehydic
Main: Aldehydes
Supported by: Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli

Heart notes: Elegant, Floral
Main: –
Supported by: Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Ylang-Ylang

Base notes: Sensual, Feminine
Main: Vetiver
Supported by: Sandal, Cedar, Vanilla, Amber, Civet, Musk

Notes mentioned by Chanel: Top notes Neroli from Grasse blend into the sensual, floral notes of two exceptional raw materials, May Rose and Jasmine from Grasse.

Aldehydes provide airy freshness and lend an abstract effect to the fragrance.

Impression of the scent by Chanel: N°5, the very essence of femininity.

A powdery floral bouquet housed in an iconic bottle with a minimalist design. A timeless, legendary fragrance.

Classification by H&R Genealogy: Feminine, Floral, Aldehydic

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): B4f Floral aldehydic feminine

Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Soft Floral, Classical/Classique, feminine

Verdict by Luca Turin:
EDP – 4 of 5 stars called “aldehydic interrupted”
EDT – 5 of 5 stars called “peachy floral”
Also mentioned in his top 10 list “Best Florals”.

This fragrance is compared to: L’Aimant by Coty, Chanel N°5 Eau Premiere, Liu by Guerlain, Gold Woman by Amouage, Arpège by Lanvin, Nonchalance by Mäurer & Wirtz , Suddenly Woman I by Lidl,

Aeon 001 – vetiver flesh

Aeon001

Name: Aeon 001

Brand: Aeon

Perfumer: Remains unknown until the next perfume is launched.

Year of creation: 2016

Notes mentioned by Parfumo/Fragrantica/Basenotes: Vetiver, White blossoms, Smoky notes, Spices, Resins

Impression of the scent by Aeon: Аn experimental scent, regardless of commercial or brand driven restrictions, for a limited circle of yet unknown friends and lovers of rare fragrances.
Aeon001 is challenging the perception of vetiver blending it with white flowers, smoke and spices together with a translucent layer of glowing resins.

My personal impression: A whiff of citrus fruits in the style of Eau Sauvage and a phantom of slightly soapy salty flowers above the dramatic performance of dark carnal vetiver. It smells quite dirty and smoky with a sweaty accent of labdanum and a nuance of cumin-like flesh pierced by the metallic sharpness of clove. A bit shocking and definitely daring. Sexy? Well, definitely if body odors is what turns you on. But one should pay a special attention to hers or his personal care when wearing this scent. To be immaculately dressed and groomed is a must as otherwise there is a chance to be mistaken for a vagrant or a punk.

This side of Aeon 001 reminds me of a dirty punk concept smell realized in Dreckig bleiben by Mark Buxton.

But there is also a Happy End in the story of Aeon 001. When settled down on the skin it can become a warm and cosy vetiver with a sexy nuance of flesh. The smell of someone you love. You know those moments when you let your head to rest on her or his chest to get a whiff of that seducing aroma.

More on Aeon: http://aeonperfume.com/

Floral aldehydic perfumes

Soft-Floral-SW

For the general classificaiton of Florals, please, read this post.

Floral aldehydic is an interesting example of a perfume family originated from a group of aromachemicals. Technically speaking aldehydes are forming a huge group of chemical compounds containing a “formyl group”. It includes a very big group of perfume odorants. But only few of them are used as a reference for an aldehydic smell in perfumery. Mostly those are alifatic (or “fatty”) aldehydes with 10-12 carbon atoms like C10 (decanal), C11 (undecanal), C11 (undecylenic), C12 (lauric) or C12 (MNA). But there are no strict rules here as other aldehydes may be used as well.

Fatty aldehydes are not really pleasant odorants. Their smell can be described as waxy, fatty, soapy and candle-like with citrus, green, floral or metallic nuances. But when diluted and pared with florals they can bring a sparkle in the top, a soft fantasy floral note in the hart and a powdery nuance in the base of a perfume (often in combination with iris and vanilla).

The use of fatty aldehydes in perfumes goes all way back to the beginning of the 20th century. The most famous aldehydic floral created in 1921 is of course Chanel N5 often referred as the first aldehydic perfume. Chanel N5 might be the milestone of the aldeydic floral family, but the use of aldehydes is also mentioned in earlier creations like Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant from 1912. The first use of synthetic C-12 MNA aldehyde is mentioned in Floramye and Rêve d’Or by Piver in 1905 (read more here).

Aldehydes are often associated with a fantasy or artificial smell. But they do occur in nature. Citrus peel for example may contain up to several percent of fatty aldehydes. In lesser quantities they can be found in herbs (especially coriander), flowers (rose for example), conifers. They form the products of burning and ironing (think of a just-snuffed candle smell and a fresh laundry feeling).

There are three major fragrance classifications used in perfumery: a H&R-Genealogy, classification of the French Perfumer’s Society (SFP-classification) and Fragrance Wheel by Michael Edwards. H&R Genealogy determines Floral Aldehydic group as a part of a bigger Floral Family. SFP-classification uses the similar approach. It defines Floral Aldehydic as a separate group of the Floral Family and assigns it with a B4 code. In earlier version of SFP-classification B5 code was used, which is a bit confusing when reading older books and reviews. The Fragrance Wheel of Michael Edwards doesn’t have Floral Aldehydic group, but uses the term Soft Florals instead to describe this fragrance family. Inside this group he also differentiates Citrus Fruity, Gourmand, Green, Iris, Musc, Marine and White Floral subgroups to emphasize different nuances of Soft Florals. The same perfume can be classified differently. Like My Sin by Lanvin belongs to B3 (floral bouquet) group according to SFP-classification, but is placed under Floral Aldehydic by the H&R-Genealogy.

The milestone aldehydic florals are: Chanel N5, Arpège by Lanvin, Je Reviens by Worth, Calèche by Hermès, Madame Rochas, Climat by Lancôme, Calandre by Paco Rabanne, Chamade by Guerlain, Nocturnes by Caron, Estée by Estée Lauder.

My Sin by Lanvin

LanvinMySin

Name: My Sin (the original name Mon Péché was changed to My Sin for the USA market)

Brand: Lanvin

Perfumer: Madame Zed

Year of creation: 1925 (discontinued)

Pyramid according to H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Aldehydic, Fresh
Main: Aldehydic Comlex
Supported by: Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Clary Sage

Heart notes: Sweet, Floral
Main: Ylang-Ylang
Supported by: Orient Rose, Jasmin, Spice Carnation, Orris

Base notes: Woody, Sweet, Balsamic
Main: Vetiver, Vanilla
Supported by: Sandal, Virginia Cedar, Musk, Tabac, Styrax, Civet

Classification by H&R Genealogy: Feminine, Floral, Aldehydic

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): B3f Floral, Bouquet, feminine

 

 

Eau de Narcisse Bleu – review

NarcisseBleu

For notes and facts, please, read a perfume dossier on Eau de Narcisse Bleu.

After smelling Eau de Narcisse Bleu for the first time I’ve got an idea to create a picture of a blue narcissus flower. After several attempts I finally came with a satisfying result about a year ago. I use it now to illustrate this text. But it took me another year to find the words to describe the scent.

When trying to find Narcissus in Eau de Narcisse Bleu, it’s important to forget everything you know about the narcissus note in perfumery and switch the reference point to the natural narcissus absolue. A Russian blogger Ekaterina Khmelevskaya in her aromablog.ru has perfectly described that smell, so let me cite her here: “The real narcissus absolue doesn’t smell like tight honeyed yellow and white gramophone shaped flowers. But rather like hay, a little bit of soap and small blue flowers.” Fleur de Narcisse by L’Artisan Parfumeur is good reference for the natural narcissus note.

Another interesting point about Eau de Narcisse Bleu is its translunary character. While smelling it I don’t get a clear visual impression, but rather a sequence of gleaming illusions overflowing into each other. First I percept a simple sketch of white and blue hyacinths painted by the green galbanum note. But in a moment that vision falls apart into thousands white snowflakes of powdery musk. I feel the citrus nuance of the scent touching my skin like a white magnolia petal, but it easily melts under the lukewarm rays of winter sun. Eau de Narcisse Bleu could perfectly express the smell of snowdrops as it’s all about early spring, melting snow, frosted grass and narcissus flowers went blue with cold.

Eau de Narcisse Bleu by Hermès

EaudeNarcisseBleuBottle

Name: Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Brand: Hermes

Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena

Year of creation: 2013

Pyramid according to Osmoz:

Top notes: Orange Blossom, Galbanum
Heart notes: Narcissus
Base notes: Woody Notes, Powdery Notes

Notes mentioned by Parfumo/Fragrantica/Basenotes: Narcissus and Woody Notes (all three), Galbanum and Orange Blossom (Parfumo only).

Impression of the scent by Hermès:
An ode to a raw material endlessly reflected back by playing on its salient features, Eau de narcisse bleu pays an unusual homage to freshness. This exercise in style tackles the sense of touch, given depth with orange blossom and galbanum. A novella with contemporary, very individual writing, creating a muted contrast between the dense textured notes of narcissi and the delicacy of a woody accord.

“A completely free-spirited creation in which I particularly wanted to express the tactile aspect of the raw material.”
Jean-Claude Ellena

Visual impression by Hermès:

EaudeNarcisseBleuVisual

Classification by Osmoz: Floral woody musk

Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Floral, Fresh/Frais, Citrus Fruity, unisex

This fragrance is compared to: Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermès, Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene.

For my personal impression of this scent, please, read my review here.

Tosca by 4711 Mühlens

nd.5796

Name: Tosca

Brand: Mäurer & Wirtz (was 4711 Mühlens and before 1928 probably Tosca Parfums)

Perfumer: ?

Year of creation: 1921

Pyramid according to H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Aldehydic, Fresh
Main: Aldehyde complex
Supported by: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange Blossom

Heart notes: Classic, Precious, Floral
Main: Ylang-Ylang
Supported by: Jasmine, Orris, Rose de Mai, Clove Buds

Base notes: Sweet, Powdery, Sensual
Main: Sandalwood
Supported by: Vetiver, Amber, Musk, Civet, Vanilla, Benzoin

Notes mentioned by Mäurer & Wirtz:

Top note: Bergamot – Lemon – Neroli – Orange – Aldehydes
Heart note:
Rose – Jasmine – Lily of the Valley – Ylang Ylang – Daffodil
Base note:
Patchouli – Vanilla – Amber – Labdanum

Impression of the scent by Mäurer & Wirtz: TOSCA – TIMELESS ELEGANT

TOSCA – since 1921 this has been the timeless, classic fragrance for beautiful, elegant and confident women who live and love glamour.

This sophisticated fragrance’s classically feminine style and hint of extravagance envelop its wearers in the kind of elegance that befits a grande dame, no matter what the situation.

Visual Impression by Mäurer & Wirtz:

o.7376

Classification by H&R Genealogy: Feminine, Floral, Aldehydic

Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): ?

Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Soft Floral, Rich/Profond, feminine

This fragrance is compared to: Precious by Shirley May

Some images of former editions of Tosca:

Found on Pinterest (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/53972895506010309/):

21bd278b31fbe7f895dfa948231c1524

From Love Vintage blog (http://www.lovevintage.co.uk/index.php/2013/05/on-the-scent/):

tosca-4711

From Pinterest (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/371054456769783783/):

6f6d58ac21efa0fdc2078b06c02f0b6f

From on-line auction:

668_002

Un Matin au Jardin Thé Vert by Yves Rocher

The vert YR 

Name: Thé Vert (Un Matin au Jardin line)

Brand: Yves Rocher

Perfumer: ? (Parfumo mentiones Francis Kurkdjian)

Year of creation: 2015

Notes according to Yves Rocher: Green tea, citrus and woody notes.

Impression of the scent by Yves Rocher: The pleasure of the intense freshness of Green Tea covering the lush green hills of Asia, stretching majestically as far as the eye can see.

Visual impression by Yves Rocher:

The vert visual YR

My own impression of the scent:

It’s not the first tea scent inside the Yves Rocher collection. The fans of this brand would remember Fraîcheur Végétale Thé Vert launched in 2003. Both build around a recognizable green tea accord introduced by Jean-Claude Ellena in Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert for Bvlgari in 1992.

According to my personal classification the whole Un Matin au Jardin line belongs to a category of the “morning colognes”, the light fresh waters with low staying power. So they can be sprayed directly after waking up to give my morning a nice boost and disappear by the time I go to the shower.

Thé Vert acts like a refreshing sip of green tea with lemon served outside on the background of the spring garden. Fresh air, energizing smell of citrus and a lot of bright shades of green. Sometimes I even smell a whiff of fresh white blossoms brought by a gust of wind (a small reminder from Cerisier en Fleurs). A faint transparent woody background completes the picture. This cup of tea works like a good tonic filling me with joy and energy for the day. The staying power is extremely low. I don’t know whether I can finish drinking my tea before Thé Vert is almost gone. I can barely smell it in an hour. But I am still happy to have it as a morning cologne.

This fragrance is compared to: Fraîcheur Végétale Thé Vert (discontinued), Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden and Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert by Bvlgari.

Cuir Venenum: sweet dangerous temptation

Cuir Venenum (PG03) by Parfumerie Générale

Aromyth's impression of the scent

Aromyth’s impression of the scent

Cuir Venenum… the name I liked from the moment I saw it. My imagination created the pictures of alchemist’s labs from the Dark Ages full of mysterious potions. The secret recipe of one of them must have been found by Pierre Guillaume to be used in his PG03 creation. Curiosity mixed with excitement were dominating my emotional state when I smelled the perfume. But the potion was very good in keeping its secrets. A mix of wine and sweet viscous honey was filling the whole space with a syrupy sweetness preventing me from smelling through. Delicious but also suffocating at the same time. As a good poison should be.

From my experience I was already familiar with such a phenomenon. When several notes are tightly stitched together forming a firm conglomerate that doesn’t let the brain to recognize its parts. The only way to deal with it is to keep smelling and trying to recognize the scent. Reading the experience of others may help as well. Luca Turin helped me a lot to reveal the secret of Cuir Venenum. And finally I could enjoy the scent in all its beauty instead of just sinking in a suffocating sweetness of the honey wine. So, let’s see what is inside this scent.

The inspiration behind Cuir Venenum is the aroma of a dark model’s skin after wearing a leather dress during a Jean Claude Jitrois show. To recreate an impression of the smell Pierre used a combination of Tunisian orange blossom from Nabeul and a leather skin accord on the base of cedarwood, honey, musk and myrrh. Tamanu oil was also used. I don’t know much about this exotic ingredient except it comes from a tropical blossoming tree and has an earthy, nutty and woody smell. Another exotic ingredient used in Cuir Venenum is coconut polyalcohol that is common cosmetic compound helping the bioactive ingredients to penetrate the skin. It possess a smell recalling a human skin scent and at the same time it helps the perfume to act like a true venom by penetrating the skin and attaching to it. Can it really do that? Well, not sure, but I like the idea.

Cuir Venenum was released in 2004. Perfumery Générale classifies it as oriental floral leather perfume. Michael Edwards places it into Dry Woods family of leather chypres under classical subgroup. Luca Turin gives it 4 stars of 5 and refers as “rye leather”. The last one is a very interesting effect of orange blossom and leather combination that creates and illusion of rye of malt. As if you smell an empty beer glass with a film of dried bier left on its walls.

Cuir Venenum starts with a bitter freshness of leafy petitgrain that cools like a leafage shadow. It goes deeper and darker until it turns into a honeysweet nectar of orange blossoms shining like a piece of amber in the rays of the descending sun. The slightly smoky flatters of leather arise like the dusk. The smell of ale and wine are joining the scene and then the honey smelling skin. The play of Cuir Venenum may begin. Sweet, dark and dangerous temptation.

Picture from http://www.parfumerie-generale.com

Picture from http://www.parfumerie-generale.com