Baghari by Piguet – a review
February 18, 2016
This is a review of a modern version of Bahjari from 2006. For the scent pyramid and classification, please see the “perfume dossier”.
While browsing through the reviews of Baghari one may easily notice two curious facts. First its comparison with Chanel N5. And almost opposite variations in the perceptions of this scent. It can be described either as sharp and difficult to wear or as smooth and pleasant.
The resemblance with Chanel N5 is quite understandable. Both fragrances belong to the floral aldehydic family and their olfactory pyramids are quite similar. But my personal perception of aldehydes in those perfumes is quite different. In Chanel N5 my nose tends to interpret them as a part of a fantasy floral bouquet. In Baghari aldehydic accord gives me a sensation of coldness. Combined with the fluffy powderness of iris and vanilla it paints a snow covered winter landscape. The candy-like citrus accord on the other side combines its orange brightness with the soft light of brittle resins creating a feeling of weak, but warm winter sunrays. All together it makes a picture of a nice sunny white winter day. The floral heart of Baghari seems to be frozen. It almost rasps with its metallic aspect at first, but later melts into an elegant bouquet of creamy lipstick roses. Sometimes I catch a picture of Chanel N5 in Baghari, but it reminds me much more of La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens.
When I smelled Baghari for the first time I was a bit shocked by the harshness of its aldehydic frost on the sharp edges of resins in combination with a dazzling effect of an abundant citrus accord. But later I fell in love with the sweet warmth of its base touching my skin like a soft fur. I think it’s in the nature of Baghari – it can appear hostile at first, but loses its spikes and turns into a warm furry housecat with wear.
P.S. The photo impression of Baghari used as illustration is based on the picture of Karin Laurila.
Baghari by Piguet
February 16, 2016
Brand: Robert Piguet Parfums
Perfumer: Francis Fabron of the original; Aurélien Guichard of the 2006 re-orchestration
Year of creation: 1950 (discontinued, re-launched in 2006)
Pyramid according to H&R Fragrance Guide:
Top notes: aldehydic fresh
Supported by: Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Lemon
Heart notes: classic elegant floral
Supported by: Lilac, Ylang-Ylang, Lily of the Valley, Jasmin
Base notes: sweet, powdery, warm
Main: Bourbon Vetiver
Supported by: Benzoin, Musk, Amber, Vanilla
Pyramid according to perfume databases Parfumo/Basenotes/Fragrantica:
Top Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Neroli
Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, Iris, Jasmine, Rosa centifolia, Violet
Base Notes: Ambergris, Musk, Vanilla, Vetiver
Notes mentioned by the Robert Piguet Parfums:
Top notes: Aldehydic Notes
Heart notes: Rose, Jasmine
Base notes: Amber, Vanilla, Musk
Impression of the scent by Robert Piguet Parfums:
Escape and seek a romantic encounter with this exotic elixir. Baghari, warm and alluring, blends a bouquet of rose, jasmine, iris and fresh citrus with powdery amber and natural vanilla.
Classification by H&R Genealogy: Feminine, Floral, Aldehydic
Classification by SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): B4f Floral aldehydic feminine
Fragrance Wheel (by Michael Edwards) classification: Soft Floral, Rich/Profond, feminine
Verdict by Luca Turin: 4 of 5 stars called “orange chypre”
This fragrance is compared to: Chanel No. 5, L’Aimant by Coty, La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens
You can read my own impression of Bughari here.