Tag: violet leaf

The Unicorn Spell by LesNez

The Unicorn Spell

Nose: Isabelle Doyen

What can you find in the bottle:
The Unicorn Spell came into my path as a part of a quest for green fragrances. I was looking for a different take on a violet leaf theme from Grey Flannel and so I met The Unicorn Spell introduced by a friend. Both scents explore the theme of a floral freshness on a background of cold and almost harsh greenness. Something that reminds me of the early spring when the first flowers are coming from the ground resisting the drafts of cold wind. In The Unicorn Spell the different tints of white and green are painting an image of а misty glade where the pearled with dew grass intersperses with little snowdrops. The glade is a part of an enchanted forest surrounded with dark trunks of ancient oak trees surrounded with a purple glow. And once you carefully look between their massive roots, you might find the violet flowers hidden there.

The Unicorn Spell is a violet fragrance with a twist. Instead of showing the fragrant floral heart or play around the candied violet leaves, this fragrance emphasizes the green nuances of a violet leave and the woody aspect of the flowers.

Luca Turin verdict: **** (4 stars of 5), green violet

LesNez on their creation:
“If by dawn still linger on your skin mixed scents of leaves, frost and violet blooms, and that relentless yearning for stellar sights, you will know that, at night, you felt the milky breath of a unicorn.”

Lucky Scent on this fragrance:
“Inspired by the scent of leaves, frost and violet blooms at dawn, by moonlight and transparency”

There are no notes mentioned on LesNez website.

Fragrantica mentions the following notes: Violet, Green notes, Woody notes.

Lucky Scent describe the pyramid as following: “The cold, green top notes, the subtly sweet, berry-like accord in the middle, the delicate woodiness of the drydown.”

Similar fragrances to explore:
1. Fresh takes on violets like in La Violette by Annick Goutal or an eau de cologne violette in Lumen_esce by Nomencalture.
2. Cool florals on a green background like in Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene, Ombre de Hyacinth by Tom Ford, Green by Byredo and may be also Eau de Narcisse Bleu by Hermès.
3. Violets share some similar aspects with iris, so the fragrances with iris and green notes combination may be interesting to explore here. From classic Chanel N19 to the modern takes on the same subjects like Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens or the green iris from Iris Cendre by Naomi Goodsir.

The season of green florals with Grey Flannel


Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene or Spring is in the Air

IMG_4711v2SWIt’s always the same around this time of the year. The winter feels like it has been gone (even there is a big chance it comes back with snow and frost) and my inner calendar starts to notice the first signs of spring (even the smallest ones). Fortunately it’s easy to find something blossoming any time of the year in Amsterdam. Like different sorts of Viburnum shrubs reminding me of the first blossoming fruit trees. Or the yellow flowers of winter jasmine. And once it’s really cold and rainy outside, there is always place for hyacinths and tulips inside the house. The pungent smell of hyacinths that combines the cool green freshness with white floral elements fits perfectly this season.

At the first glance there seem to be not much hyacinth soliflores. Michael Edward’s guide mentions only Jardin Clos by Diptyque. But the cool green note of hyacinth can be found in many fragrant families – green, green chypre, fresh florals, white florals, fresh woody, etc. Like today I am wearing Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene where I defenitely sense hyacinth impression while is not even mentioned in the pyramid.

Name: Grey Flannel

Brand: Geoffrey Beene

Perfumer: André Fromentin (quite an unknown name for a perfumista)

Year of creation: 1975/76 (re-orchestration in 1996 is mentioned)

Pyramid according to H&R Fragrance Guide:

Top notes: Green
Main: Green note
Supported by: Galbanum, Lemon, Petitgrain, Bergamot

Heart notes: Green
Main: Violet
Supported by: Rose, Clary Sage, Fern, Geranium

Base notes: Powdery
Main: Musk
Supported by: Cedarwood, Moss, Tonka

Other notes mentioned in different pyramids: green lemon, orange, neroli, labdanum, violet leaves, mimosa, orris, cinnamon, amber, vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood.

Classification according to H&R Genealogy: Chypre, green

Classification according to SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs): B6m, Floral (Fleuri) group, Woody (Boisé) subgroup, masculine

Classifications according to Fragrance Wheel by Michael Edwards: Woods (Boisé), Fresh (Frais) subgroup

Verdict by Luca Turin: 5 stars of 5 called “sweet green

Grey Flannel seems to be a controversial fragrance getting a lot “love it or hate it” response. People call it either a “timeless masterpiece” or “synthetic crap”. Even Luca Turin who gives it 5 stars calls it a “masterpiece”, but at the same time mentions that the fragrance “occasionally feel a little crude”. Sounds like a perfume with a daring character. But there is one more thing i discovered reading the reviews from the experienced perfumista. I understand the scent is affected by reformulations. The version of 80’s seems to be richer and more refined than the current one. Well, both facts can explain the ambivalent feelings about Grey Flannel.

When I put Grey Flannel on, I get the same controversial feelings. I do love the start and I almost hate the base. Love the citrus freshness of the scent made almost non-recognizable behind the green fumes of galbanum and violet leaves. That pungent cool green freshness reminding me of a hyacinth flower. Cold and clean like the snow, but with a floral touch of fragile early blossoms. I smell the slightly bitter sweetness of violet leaves rubbed between the fingers. And that dusty powdery mossy base that gives the scratchy feeling reminding me the sense of raw woolen clothe on the skin. The general mood of Grey Flannel translated into colors feels like muted whitish, greenish and bluish tints turned out just to be the shades of grey.

The base tells me the different story. There seems to be a mixture of musk molecules that I can’t stand. I found them in the base of many other perfumes. And I hear more complains about the certain musk molecules from other perfumista. A lot of people are anosmic to one or several musk molecules and can’t smell them. Others seem to experience some musks as being quite unpleasant. Altogether it makes perfumes to be a lottery. A lot of them are very pleasing at the start, but you never know what is hidden in the end.

There are several possibilities to deal with the unpleasant bases. First it’s good to try different launches. Perfumes are undergoing slight reformulations quite often and there is a chance you find a version that is free from unpleasant side effects. Another possibility is to spray more every hour or two to refresh the top and keep down the base notes. At the end of the day you will probably need a shower, but you can enjoy the favorite parts of the scent the whole day. There is a chance you get used to the unpleasant notes and stop noticing them. And the last remedy is to find an alternative that has a similar smell or character, but is free from the side effects. And Fragrantica gives me some hints about Grey Flannel look alike perfumes: Eau de Narcisse Bleu by Hermes, Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermes, Green by Byredo, Ombre de Hyacinth by Tom Ford and Background by Jil Sanders. Well, sounds like an exciting adventure of discovering the new fragrances!